SEPTIC FAQ'S

Septic systems can alert you to a variety of problems - high liquid level, low-air on aerobic systems, power loss, a malfunctioning float sensor, or pump faults. The first steps are the same for all alarms: silence the audible alarm, minimize water use, and then try to diagnose the cause for the alarm.

IMMEDIATE ACTIONS (for all alarms): 

1. Silence the audible alarm using the toggle or push button, but don’t shut off power to the system to silence the  alarm.  The light should remain on.

2. Minimize water use until the system is confirmed healthy.

3. Check for power issues (breaker, GFCI).  If power is fine, do not open tanks – call a licensed technician.

Call us and we can assist with further troubleshooting based on what type of system you have!

DONT'S:

Don't ignore alarms or silence them permanently.

Don't use heavy water while in an alarm state.

Don't attempt repairs or open tanks.

If your toilets or drains are gurgling, slow to drain, or backing up and your septic alarm has not gone off, the issue is usually caused by a clog or restriction, not necessarily a system failure. The most common causes are a clogged outlet filter in the septic tank or a blockage in the house plumbing or main line leading to the septic tank.

Step-by-Step Guidance:

• Minimize water usage; every additional flush or shower can push sewage toward a backup inside the house. 
• Check if other fixtures are affected. If only one toilet or drain is slow, the problem may be isolated, try to plunge that fixture. lf multiple fixtures are slow or gurgling, the blockage is likely in the main plumbing line or septic tank outlet.
• Listen for gurgling or bubbling in nearby drains when water is used elsewhere - this often indicates air trapped by a clog.
• If you can safely access the septic tank filter: remove it using gloves, rinse with a garden hose away from the tank opening and reinsert securely once clean. Never enter or lean into the tank.
• If the problem continues after cleaning the filter, the clog may be in the building sewer line. Call a licensed septic service provider or plumber to snake or inspect the line.
• If sewage has backed up inside the home, treat it as an emergency. Stop water use and call a professional cleanup and septic service immediately.

Common Causes:

• Clogged or uncleaned effluent filter (should be cleaned every 6-12 months).
• Partial blockage or grease buildup in house plumbing, sometimes just plunging the fixture will fix this. 
• Roots or collapse in the sewer line between house and tank.
• Full or overdue septic tank pumping.
• Vent pipe blockage (can also cause gurgling sounds).

Prevention Tips:

• Schedule regular septic pumping and filter cleaning.
• Avoid flushing wipes, grease, hygiene products, or excessive paper.
• Keep clean-outs and tank access risers visible and reachable.
• Schedule periodic filter maintenance reminders.

The first thing you need to do is make sure you're comparing apples to apples.

Reputable septic pumping companies charge based on the volume pumped and the services performed. If you just call and say, "I need my septic pumped," they may quote you a flat rate for a 1,000-gallon tank, which is the most common size. However, many modern systems include multiple tanks - such as a pump tank or an aerobic treatment unit (ATU) - and those can add to the total cost.

The important thing is to make sure that the company you call:

• Gets a clear description of your system, including the number and type of tanks you have.
• Provides transparent pricing options, explaining what it might cost to pump only one tank or all the tanks if needed.

By clarifying what's included and understanding your system, you'll get a fair and accurate price - and avoid surprises later.

Not necessarily. Very few septic systems have alarms that can detect when the tank actually needs to be pumped, so an alarm is usually unrelated.

In some cases, if your system is in alarm mode, pumping may be needed as part of troubleshooting or to perform necessary repairs - for example, if a pump chamber needs to be emptied before work can be done.

However, be cautious of companies that immediately assume your alarm means the system just needs pumping. A professional should diagnose the cause of the alarm first to determine whether it's a high-water condition, an aeration problem, or a control system fault.

It depends on your household's usage - and the only way to know for sure is to

check it periodically.

In our experience, here's what is typical:

• Younger family with teenagers: every 2 to 3 years
• Family of four: every 3 to 4 years
• Couple living full-time: every 4 to 5 years
• Older couple (more septic-conscious): every 5 to 7 years

Many of our customers have us check their systems or clean their filters every 1 to 2 years.  We offer this service at a discounted rate when scheduled flexibly.  

This not only keeps your system operating efficiently but also lets you track when your tank will need pumping – and helps you avoid backups caused by a clogged outlet filter.

No, that is not because your septic tank needs to be pumped.

If you have sewage odors in your home, the most common cause is a dried-up plumbing trap - this can happen in sinks, tubs, or floor drains that haven't been used for a while.

Other possible causes include:

• Plumbing vent problems, such as a vent pipe that's blocked by a bird's nest or debris.
• Improper venting or negative pressure in the plumbing system.
• Unrelated odor sources, like a dead rodent in a crawlspace or another hidden area.

Your septic system is usually not to blame for indoor odors. Start by checking your traps and vent pipes, and if the problem persists, contact a plumber or septic professional to help identify the source.

A low air alarm on an aerobic treatment unit (ATU) means the system isn't getting enough air pressure from the aerator or blower. The aerator provides oxygen to the aerobic chamber so that bacteria can properly treat the wastewater. 

What the alarm means - and what to check - can depend on the type of system you have: 

• If you have a MicroFAST system: Check the breakers and see if the blower is running. The blower is located inside the "doghouse" style enclosure out in the yard.
• If you have a Whitewater or NuWater ATU: Check whether the air pump is operating. These systems typically run on 110 volts and are often plugged into a GFCI outlet. If the GFCI has tripped (which can happen due to moisture or minor electrical issues), the air pump will stop and trigger the alarm. Try pressing the reset button on the GFCI outlet to restore power. 

If none of these steps resolve the alarm, or if the air pump isn't running after power is confirmed, contact a licensed septic professional for service. Running an aerobic system without proper air flow can reduce treatment quality and cause odors or other problems if left unresolved.

There are several reasons why a septic alarm may go off, but the two most common causes we see in the field are: 

Leaking toilets

Even a small toilet leak can continuously send water into your septic tank. Over time, that extra water fills the tank and pump chamber faster than the system can handle, triggering a high-level alarm. Leaks are often silent - so if your alarm goes off, it's always worth checking for a slow-running toilet. 

Overuse of water

Doing too many loads of laundry, long showers, or running multiple fixtures at once can overwhelm your system temporarily. The alarm may clear itself once water use goes back to normal, but it's a good reminder to space out heavy water use when possible. Other potential causes include power issues, pump or float malfunctions, or (for aerobic systems) air supply problems - but leaking toilets and overuse are by far the most common.

You can plant some things near your septic system, but you need to be selective and cautious. Plant roots, added soil, or excess watering can interfere with your system's operation or cause costly damage over time. 

Around your septic tank:

• Keep the area directly above and around your tank clear and accessible.
• Avoid planting anything larger than grass or shallow-rooted ground cover.
• Roots from trees and shrubs can grow into tank seams or plumbing lines, causing leaks or blockages.
• You'll also need access for inspection and pumping, so keep the area free of obstacles, decks, or dense vegetation.
• Around your drain field:
• The best cover for your drain field is grass - it helps prevent erosion, promotes air exchange, and won't damage pipes.

Definite "No-Nos":

Avoid anything with aggressive or water-seeking roots, such as:

Elm trees, oak trees, cedar trees, maple trees, and redwoods - their roots will damage pipes and drain lines.

Blackberries, bamboo, and other woody shrubs or vines - they spread quickly and can ruin a drain field.

Vegetable gardens - wastewater can contaminate edible crops.

Any landscaping that requires frequent watering or adds extra soil depth - this can saturate the field and reduce its effectiveness.

In short, grass is best - it's safe, simple, and protective. Keeping large plants and deep-rooted vegetation away from your septic tank and drain field will help your system last longer and work properly.

For more detailed guidance on septic-safe landscaping, Washington State University Extension has excellent research-based information and plant recommendations specific to our region.

Yes, that should be looked at. If sewage is surfacing, it definitely needs to be addressed. If you have a pump tank, check to see if you have a breaker that's tripped and why your alarm has not gone off. If it's just a gravity system, the issue might be a clogged filter. Regardless, it should be addressed quickly before you end up unable to flush.

No . Additives are not necessary for a properly functioning septic system. The only people who recommend additives are usually the ones selling them.

A healthy septic system already contains all the bacteria it needs to break down waste. In fact, some additives can actually harm your system by disrupting the natural bacterial balance or pushing solids into the drain field, shortening its lifespan.

If you're maintaining your system properly - by pumping at regular intervals and avoiding flushing harmful materials - there's no need for any additive.

Yes. There are several things that should never go into your septic system. Even if a product claims to be "septic safe" it can still cause damage or shorten the lifespan of your system.

Here's a list of common "Do Not Flush or Drain" items:

• Flushable wipes : Even if labeled  "septic safe"  they do not break down like toilet paper and can clog filters and pumps.
• Flushable kitty litter : Absolutely not; it will not dissolve and can cause serious blockages.
• Fats, oils, and grease : Never pour them down the drain. They solidify, cause clogs, and reduce your system's efficiency.
• Paints, solvents, and chemicals : These can kill beneficial bacteria and disrupt the treatment process.
• Water softener discharge : The brine (saltwater) from water softeners can harm the biological balance in your system. It should be routed to a separate dry well or other approved location instead of your septic tank.

Keeping these materials out of your system helps prevent backups, odors, and costly repairs while extending the life of your septic system.

To silence a septic alarm, there is usually either a toggle switch or a push button on the alarm panel. Use this feature to stop the audible alarm while keeping the system powered and active.

It's very important not to silence the alarm by turning off power - either at the breaker or at the electrical disconnect near the panel. Doing so may disable your pump or control system and make the situation worse.

If you're unsure about how to silence the alarm properly, call us . We can guide you through the process step-by-step.

A common mistake is disconnecting power to the control panel or pump to stop the noise. This might make the buzzer quit sounding, but it does not fix the problem and often leads to sewage backups.

The most common reason for a septic alarm going off at night is a leaking toilet or another slow leak somewhere in the household. Even a small leak can cause your pump to run at odd hours.

How to check for leaks:

If you have a water meter, look for the leak detector - usually a small triangle or arrow in the center of the dial. Make sure it's not moving when no water is being used inside the home. If it is, that means water is flowing somewhere and likely causing your system to overfill.

Other, less common possibilities include:

A low air alarm on a NuWater system, which can sometimes occur during the system's nighttime sludge return cycle.

A low water alarm in a pump tank controlled by an Orenco panel, especially if the tank was recently pumped or there's a leak in the tank.

Regardless of the cause, if the alarm sounds and you're unsure why, silence it properly (without turning off the power) and call for service.

Septic inspections for gravity systems are required every three years and for any systems with a pump are required yearly. 

In Island County, this has not been strictly enforced, but periodic inspections are a good idea to ensure that your septic system is healthy and operating properly.

In addition to checking the scum and sludge levels, the condition of the septic tank and the baffles, during an inspection we will also assess the condition of the drainfield as a minimum. Most modern systems have other components, like a pump tank and maybe a dose-timed control panel, and often some sort of alternative treatment like a sand filter or an aerobic treatment unit. For those systems, there are several different components that we have to check and filters to clean to ensure that everything is working per design. 

Regardless of what local and state regulations require, regular maintenance on your septic system is a good investment.

Yes, we have emergency service available if necessary. If you call our office phone, our message will always leave an emergency number to call if you have an issue that needs immediate attention.